Peptides in Skincare: Separating Science from Hype
Peptides are everywhere in skincare right now—and with that popularity comes a lot of noise. They’re often described as miracle ingredients for firmness, ageing, and skin resilience. But what’s genuinely supported by science, and what’s simply clever marketing language?
At Friiskin, we believe education builds trust. So let’s take a clear, honest, science‑respectful look at peptides—what they are, how they’re understood to work in cosmetic skincare, and what you can realistically expect from a well‑formulated peptide routine.
What Are Peptides?
Peptides are short chains of amino acids—the same building blocks that form proteins like collagen, elastin, and keratin. In the body, peptides play many roles, including acting as messenger molecules that help regulate normal cellular activity.
In skincare, peptides aren’t about replacing what the skin loses with age. Instead, they’re used to support the skin’s own maintenance systems, particularly those involved in keeping the extracellular matrix—the skin’s structural framework—functioning well.
Think of peptides not as a shortcut, but as a way of working with the skin, not against it.
How Do Peptides Work in Skincare?
Some cosmetic peptides are designed to resemble fragments of naturally occurring skin proteins. In laboratory and controlled research settings, certain peptides have been shown to interact with skin cells involved in matrix maintenance, including fibroblasts.
When used consistently in leave‑on formulations, peptides may help support:
- The appearance of skin firmness and elasticity
- A smoother look to fine lines
- Overall skin texture and resilience
- Skin comfort when the barrier is stressed or compromised
Peptides don’t force rapid change. Their role is subtle, cumulative, and supportive—making them particularly well suited to long‑term routines that prioritise barrier health and skin resilience.
Do Peptides Penetrate the Skin?
Skin penetration is one of the most discussed—and misunderstood—topics in peptide science.
You may have heard of the “500 Dalton Rule,” which suggests that larger molecules struggle to move through the skin barrier. While this guideline is useful, modern formulation science shows that penetration depends on many factors, including molecular structure, solubility, the delivery vehicle, and overall formulation design.
One important advancement is lipid modification. When peptides are bonded to fatty acids like palmitic acid, they become more compatible with the skin’s lipid‑rich barrier. In laboratory skin‑permeation models, these lipid‑modified peptides show improved interaction with the skin compared to non‑modified forms.
Rather than promising deep dermal delivery, current evidence suggests these peptides can better interact with biologically relevant layers of the skin, where they may support skin function over time.
Common Peptide Myths
Myth 1: “Peptides work instantly”
Peptides aren’t quick fixes. They work gradually, alongside your skin’s natural rhythms. Most people notice visible changes after several weeks of consistent use, with continued improvements as the skin becomes more resilient.
Myth 2: “More peptides mean better results”
With peptides, more isn’t better—better is better. Selection, stability, concentration, and formulation quality matter far more than the number of peptides listed on the label.
Myth 3: “Peptides replace retinoids”
Peptides and retinoids work differently. Retinoids influence cell turnover, while peptides are used to support pathways related to skin structure and comfort. When used thoughtfully, they can complement each other rather than compete.
Myth 4: “All peptide products perform the same”
Peptides need time on the skin to do their job. This is why serums and moisturisers—rather than rinse‑off products—are typically the most appropriate formats.
Synthetic vs Natural Peptides: What Matters
The peptides used in Friiskin formulations are synthetic biomimetic peptides—not because they’re artificial for the sake of it, but because this allows for precision, stability, and consistency.
Naturally derived proteins like hydrolysed collagen can be wonderful for hydration and skin feel, but their larger structure limits their role as topical signalling agents. Synthetic peptides are designed to be smaller, stable, and—in some cases—lipid‑modified to improve compatibility with the skin barrier.
It’s not about natural versus synthetic, it’s about what actually works in a topical formula.
The Friiskin Philosophy: Support, Don’t Overstimulate
Friiskin Skincare is built on the principle of skin minimalism: giving skin exactly what it needs to function well—no more, no less.
Our Vitality Day Serum features a carefully curated peptide complex selected for complementary cosmetic mechanisms and ingredient‑level research:
- Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide‑2 – Studied in cosmetic research for its association with proteins involved in skin firmness and structural integrity. Manufacturer‑sponsored evaluations report visible improvements in firmness and skin contour over time.
- Palmitoyl Oligopeptide – A lipid‑modified peptide developed to improve skin compatibility. Cosmetic studies report improvements in the appearance of fine lines with consistent use in leave‑on formulations.
- Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide‑7 – Often paired with palmitoyl oligopeptide and studied for its role in supporting skin comfort and elasticity, particularly in ageing or environmentally stressed skin.
- Heptapeptide‑8 – Included as part of a broader peptide system to support extracellular matrix function.
These peptides are chosen for synergy and formulation stability, not trend appeal.
The Vitality Night Serum continues this supportive approach during the skin’s natural overnight recovery, while the Radiant Moisturiser helps maintain hydration and barrier integrity—both essential for long‑term skin health.
When Skin Needs Extra Support
Skin isn’t static. Stress, seasonal changes, hormones, and environmental exposure all influence how it behaves.
A well‑formulated peptide routine can help reinforce the skin barrier over time, supporting adaptability and resilience rather than chasing short‑term cosmetic fixes.
The Bottom Line
Peptides aren’t miracle cures—and they’re not hype, either. They’re well‑researched cosmetic ingredients that work best when thoughtfully formulated and used consistently.
Healthy skin isn’t about forcing results. It’s about steady, intelligent support—allowing your skin to do what it already knows how to do, just a little better over time.
Image below: My personal skin journey and evolution overtime using Friiskin Skincare consistently.
References
1. Gorouhi F, Maibach HI.
Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2009;31(5):327–345.
2. Pickart L, Margolina A.
Regenerative and protective actions of the GHK-Cu peptide in the light of new gene data.
International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018;19(7):1987.
3. Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel.
Safety assessment of tripeptide-1, hexapeptide-12, their metal salts and fatty acyl derivatives, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.
International Journal of Toxicology. 2020;39(1_suppl):5S–21S.
4. Loing E, Lachmann-Weber N, Tasli E, et al.
A cosmetic anti-ageing ingredient inhibits progerin expression and reduces the signs of photo-ageing.
Cosmetics & Toiletries. 2013;128(7):482–489.
5. Robinson LR, Fitzgerald NC, Doughty DG, et al.
Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2005;27(3):155–160.
6. Decroisette E, Kurfurst R, Bellanger O, et al.
Cosmetic benefit of a peptide combination in a topical formulation.
Experimental and Therapeutic Medicine. 2014;8(5):1545–15